You get a dry and wet boiling point, with time.6 months or so, you're looking more at the wet boiling point. ![]() This is with BMW brake fluid, not brake fluid with higher boiling points that also are more hygroscopic. ![]() I think before BMW started doing maintenance service at "no charge" to you under warranty, they recommended brake fluids to be changed every year. Lastly, with a power bleeder, clutch bleeding is quite easy and should be done at the same time as a brake bleed.įrom my understanding and I could be wrong but brake fluid is only good for two years and should be flushed and replaced. The 1 gallon size is more than ample to do all four corners without having to drain in between. It seals nice and then you can hang the bottle from anywhere on the chassis with stiff wire looped though the handle on the bottle. I drilled a 3/8 hole in the plastic top and inserted 5/16 ID tubing (which is 3/8 OD) into it. I built a nice catch bottle from a used 1-gallon washer fluid container. Clean the power bleeder with denatured alcohol do not use brake kleen. Regarding a power bleeder, just to be clear, the Motive power bleeder says to fill the power bleeder with about 1 quart of brake fluid (other bleeders may be different). Use the box-end of the wrench on the bleed screw to crack it open. Use penetrating oil on the bleed screws (spray them all at the same time) and let it sit for a few minutes. It's best to have the car on four stands and all four wheels off. On my 335i, the front and rear bleed screws were 2 different sizes.ġ2) Move to the left front and repeat steps 7 through 9.ġ3) When all 4 corners have been bled, release pressure on the bleeder top, then remove the cap from the reservoir, then fill with fluid and replace the reservoir cap. Refill the reservoir and repressurize the system.ġ0) Move to the left rear wheel and repeat the bleed steps 7 through 9 above.ġ1) Move to the right front and repeat steps 7 through 9. Don't loosen the cap on the reservoir unless you want to clean up brake fluid for the rest of the day. Close the bleed screw, remove the hose, replace the wheel.ĩ) Release the pressure on the power bleeder by slowly opening the screw top on the bleeder. To make it easy, you may want to make a mark at the 4 ounce level of your bottle and close the bleed screw when it gets there. This is assuming you have a normal sized catch bottle. ![]() Bleed about 2" of fluid into the catch bottle and then close the bleed screw. Try to hang that bottle higher than the nipple so any air bubbles float up and out.Ĩ) Open the bleed nipple, shouldn't take more than 1/2 a turn. Find the correct size box or open end wrench and attaché the catch bottle hose to the bleed nipple. Pump up to 12 psiħ) jack up the right rear of the car and remove the wheel. Place rags all around the opening of the reservoir.Ħ) Fill the reservoir with fresh fluid and tighten the power bleeder cap. Use a turkey baster or something and be careful not to get fluid everywhere. Make sure it holds pressure for a few minutes, if not, find out where it's leaking and fix the leak before you start flushing.Ĥ) One liter of fluid is more than enough, I used 0.5L just as someone else said.ĥ) remove about 3/4 of the OLD fluid from the reservoir. Some assembly required, but very easy.Ģ) DO NOT put brake fluid in the power bleeder.ģ) Connect the power bleeder to the fluid reservoir and pump it up to about 10 psi. May be over simplified for most here, but this is for the OP and not them.ġ) Get familiar with the power bleeder and the hoses. For you, the first timer, here are some suggestions to make this super easy, thought I'd share my experience and observations in as simple a way as I can to help you. It's no more difficult than an oil and filter change. To the OP, you can do it, and as already stated, watch the videos. I just did it a few weeks ago using the power bleeder and a catch bottle on my 335i.
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